Air Setup #1 (1994 Bronco)
as I have a disease, which involves spending lots of time
and money on my Ď94 bronco, I decided I would go for some
onboard air. There are lots of good write-ups out there, but
none are too bronco specific. While most of the install criteria
are the same, the mounting of the York in ours is a little
I started by pulling a York out of an 80ís Volvo. I actually
had to pull 4 out before I found one that worked. You want
to check two things before you purchase one from a junkyard.
You need to check the magnetic clutch and that the thing
pumps air. Take the wire that comes down the front of the
York and put it to the positive terminal on your battery.
Make sure the unit is ground on the vehicle somewhere. Yorks
are self-grounding, so there is no need to have a grounding
wire. When you hear the pop from the battery juice, the
clutch mechanism should engage and turn with the pulley.
The second thing you need to check is that it pumps air.
To do this, either engage the clutch and spin the pulley
or push in on the clutch and spin the pulley. When doing
so, you should be able to feel a vacuum on your thumb when
placed over the suction side hose, or hear air rush out
of the discharge side. It also kind of makes a gurgling
sound. Once these checks are done, you should be okay. Another
thing you should note while doing these checks is that the
pulley spins freely. I opted for the 10 series York, but
they also have smaller stroked models that will work, just
not as well.
so now you have a working York. Now you need to figure out
how to mount the thing. The easiest place to mount them
is on the alternator side of the motor. There is one brand
of mounting system available through Sabreforce
for the two bolt mounted alternator on the pre 92s. Jim
makes a very nice quality mount, but does not make one for
the 3 bolt mounting system on the later model alternators.
gallon air tank - purchased at Kilby Enterprises. 60
Lines - I got mine CHEAP at Costco 100 ft for like 12
bucks, used 50 ft
filter- purchased at Grainger 30 bucks
way manifold, pop-off valve, Pressure Gauge, lots of
fittings - purchased at Orchard Supply Hardware and
HomeDepot. Not sure, but around 60 bucks
switch - purchased at Kilby Enterprises or Grainger
40 or 50 bucks I think
Check valve - purchased at Kilby Enterprises or Grainger
Pulley for alternator - purchased from Kilby Enterprises
for 40 bucks
V style belt for 13 bucks at Autozone
This is basically what you need to make a system. I
started with the tank, and there are several ways to
do this so you need to pick the one that is best for
your budget and style. In an effort to keep things simple,
I bought a new tank from Kilby Enterprises. There are
cheaper ways to do it using tanks out of semis, etc.
or fire extinguishers or whatever. You can do this,
I just elected to save the time and effort and spend
30 extra bucks as my patience were wearing thin by the
time I got to the tank (I actually did the tank last,
but knew what I was going to use). I mounted the tank
behind the t-case and almost directly underneath the
back seat. The tank came with mounting holes, so I just
had to drill four holes in the flooring and buy the
appropriate bolts. The hardest part of this install
was cutting the heat shield for the exhaust system out
of the way. Of course I could not find my cut off wheel
for my grinder and did not feel like making a trip the
local ACE, so I ended up using a combination of tin
snips and my Dremmel.
I mounted the York and started running my lines. I
highly suggest taking the time and detailing your
system out on paper prior to the install. I had a
hand drawn schematic of how I wanted everything run
and where all the fittings, filters, etc. would be.
I then layed it all out on the floor before I installed
it. This saved on the install time by quite a bit.
Coming from the York, I put all my hardware inline.
First was my coalescing filter I bought from Grainger,
which connected to my check valve via a 1-inch connector.
From there I ran a 1.5-inch connector to a three way
the manifold I ran 1.5 inch pressure gauge, a 1/8 inch line
to a remote air gauge inside the cab and a 1/4 npt air line
down and along the drivers side frame rail to the tank.
one end of the tank is the supply line, and on the other
ends four ports I have two lines coming out to either bumper,
the pop off valve (pressure relief) and the pressure switch.
( sorry for the bad picture )
pressure switch has the on/off switch coming from a relayed
switch in the cab and a wire that runs back to the York
to turn it on and off. One air line runs back up the driverís
side frame, into the frame near the motor and the female
coupling sits inside the frame. I have a small piece of
rubber sheeting inside the frame rail to prevent water
and dirt from collecting there and protecting the female.
The back line comes from the tank, over the gas tank and
through the plastic valence between the rear bumper and
the bottom of the tailgate. I cut an X through the plastic
to slip the hose through. What is nice about this is that
I can push/pull the line out of the plastic to keep it
protected and out of the way while wheeling, etc.
will quickly gain friends you never knew you had. I did
have a few technical difficulties early on however. The
first difficulty I had was making sure all the fittings
would work. The check valve I got was 3/8 while most everything
else was 1/4 NPT. This is where detailing and laying out
prior to install saves a lot of time and successive trips
back to the Home Depot. The second problem I had was my
own fault. I thought it would be cool to remove the double
layer rubber pipe off the discharge side of the york and
clamp on the very thin air line with radiator clamps onto
the stock York fittings. Do you see the problem yet? I
had to cut off the crimp on fitting to remove the old
line. See it yet? Well, after the York would run for a
bit and start getting hot, the air line I put on would
blow right off the fitting. So I tried two radiator clamps.
Still did not work. The line would get too hot and slide
right off. So I am going to have a new line crimped on
like it was.
I am extremely pleased with this system. It is a never
ending supply of air, works fast and does not need to
cool down like the electric units do. It is a fun project
and costs around 200 to three hundred bucks depending
on where and what you buy (new versus used) which is comparable
to CO2 and Electric units.
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